Finding tranquility in chaos

Our second day in Rio de Janeiro had arrived and we wanted to see the acclaimed towering figure that stands guard atop Mount Corcovado, Christ the Redeemer. From nearly every vantage point in Rio – whether roaming down the random ´Rues´ in Botefugo or actually climbing the winding road past Santa Teresa to the foot of Christ – the statue is always observing you on your way. Despite our dichotomous religious beliefs – one atheist and one believer – in a strange manner we both felt protected by the omnipresence of something so sacred.

On our way up through Santa Teresa, our passage was halted by the view of a giant stairway covered with multi-coloured painted tiles in the midst of the favelas (Brazilian slums). A local informed us that we could venture to the top step of this masterpiece but not beyond, to prevent ignorantly strolling into the ‘City of God’ – gangland territory. Being careful not to underestimate the very real violent crime of Rio, we decided to maintain our distance.

The staircase had been the life work of artist Jorge Selaron, the original backpacker who visited more than fifty countries before settling in Rio and creating this enormous tribute to the people of Brazil. Each richly-decorated glazed tile is representative of either a country that Selaron himself visited, or of historic events in Brazilian history that captured his imagination.

An impoverished visionary, he sold all of his possessions to purchase the necessities to allow him to continue plastering ceramic squares across this stone staircase. His unwavering devotion led to the work being featured in a Coca-Cola advertisement, a U2 video and, for the eagle-eyed amongst you, the background of a scene from the ´The Incredible Hulk´. Despite his commercial success, Selaron remains a penniless artist creating his sculpture in a dirty area of downtown bohemia, on a street that would have otherwise been untouched by foreigners.

When we reached the summit of Corcovado, it was, as expected, bustling with tourists, snapping pictures of themselves with arms spread before Christ. A white mist of cloud hung over the edges of the statue obscuring our view, yet gazing across what we could see of Rio’s hilly panorama, there was a tangible sense of peace garnered by lingering at the hem of Christ´s robes.

In pursuit of inner calm we took the opportunity to visit the Jardin Botanico, a large landscaped garden stretching acres across the centre of the city. An oasis of tranquility in the middle of all the hustle and bustle, it felt as if time paused as we walked past gigantic redwoods, crimson roses, gushing fountains, pouring waterfalls, canopies of thatched bamboo, miniature bonsais, placid lakes and floating green lily-pads.

Struggling out of a stupor imposed by the lull of the gardens, we further climbed to the Parque Lage, the grounds of a dilapidated mansion housing art classes for the creative masses. Entering the house through a carved stone archway, we were presented with a square swimming pool surrounded by a spacious open courtyard dotted with luxurious Victorian furniture, roughly tied bunches of bright flowers and Brazilians sipping coffee and dipping their brushes into pots of paint. In the background we saw the rising presence of Corcovado, with Christ gazing downward.

As we sat on steps in the tiered gardens of the Parque, light quickly faded and we were able to view Rio in its evening splendour. We observed the lagoon in the core of Rio, surrounded by a crescent of hills: a sea of tumbling favelas, sky rise tower blocks, people hurrying by, beeping vehicles, swathes of graffiti. Finally we turned to the shadow of the silent mansion, fountains and forests. We felt at peace, removed from the hubbub in the distance. We sat for a while, discussing the importance of finding such a place, even in a huge city of noise, sounds and excitement: it doesn´t need to be far away, it just needs to be somewhere where you can escape everything for a moment, and feel calm.