No Missiles At Assa

Assa is a humble little establishment in the Little Korea of Soho, a short stretch of shops with a conspicuously significant numbers of Korean eateries. The best sign of culinary authenticity is the presence of actual Koreans in a Korean restaurant and on this front Assa did amazingly well. The place was bustling with Koreans and it was reassuring to see them tucking into bubbling pots of kimchi stews and hearing the sounds of the dolsot bibimbap sizzling away. Seriously though, do you see the Japanese in Yo-Sushi, or Italians in Pizza Hut?

The concept is easy, get to Assa, pray that it is not packed to the doors and hopefully, grab a table. Sit down and have your legs awkwardly positioned — touching the legs of your dining mates. The things we go through for food...

Assa offers great lunch deals. For about £6, you get a main dish and two saucers of banchan (side dishes) with a rice tea to wash everything down with.

I was immediately drawn to the dolsot bibimbap upon scanning the menu though; the theatrics of a heated stone pot was good enough impetus. Unglamorously translated into “rice with various sautéed or raw vegetables topped with an egg (raw, or fried) seasoned with Korean fermented red pepper paste served in a stone pot”. Quite a mouthful. Squirt in appropriate amounts of slightly spicy pepper paste, burst the beautiful egg yolk and stir it all up. Attempt to coat every grain of rice and every bit of vegetables with the yolk and the pepper paste and enjoy the delightful contrast in flavours and textures. The crunchy vegetable strands and the fluffy grains of white rice all brought together by the more-ish and umami-rich ember red pepper paste. Those with a slightly heartier appetite should consider various stir-fried beef or chicken entrées served on top of a generous portion of rice — less ostentatious but still delicious.

What stole the show was the Haemul Pajeon (Korean style seafood pancake). An omelette packed with prawns and squids. The batter was pan-fried to a golden glorious crisp and the soy and rice vinegar dipping sauce served as a nice little embellishment. Don’t wait, though, devour the pancake asap as the crisp doesn’t last long.

Assa was equal parts sound, sight and taste. The crackle of the stone pot, the simmering of the fiercely red stews and the genuine tastes left us with a terrific experience. Travel around the world, my friends, with a culinary exploration.

Assa 53 St Giles High St, Charing Cross, London WC2H 8LH 020 7240 8256.