2012 Spring/Summer highlights hot from the catwalks

Alexander McQueen

Surely those most critical of critics in the fashion industry must get tired of singing the praises of a woman who has slipped so perfectly into the 8-inch sculpted platforms of a designer whose shoes they claimed could ne’er be filled. Alas, no dice. Sarah Burton’s latest aquatic imagining for McQueen’s line interweaved such diverse themes as oceanic life, modernist architecture and the draping techniques of the traditional haute couture. The colour palette came straight from the pearly inside of an oyster: palest pinks and silvery grey-blue were shot between ivory, gold and brightest coral.

But it wouldn’t be McQueen without the shadow of a sinister presence: laser-cut black patent leather quite literally set a shark amongst the fishes, or more likely, the jellyfish, such was the lightness of the ruffles cut in undulating, fluttering layers down skirts both long and short. A thoroughly feminine line, though with distinct elements of darkness, no look was complete without a lace, veil-like headpiece by Philip Treacy, creator of similar pieces for the hugely acclaimed McQueen retrospective, Savage Beauty. The sculpted, architectural figure, complete with defined waist, exaggerated hips and shoulders typical of the line was executed to distinction.

The ever-haunting echo of Lee McQueen, a presence both restrictive and guiding, certainly reverberated and rippled through Ms. Burton’s idyllic seascape. – SV

Louis Vuitton

Paris is no stranger to glittering displays of luxury, but no one expected the angelic dream that Marc Jacobs showcased at Louis Vuitton this season. Amidst the rumours of ‘Will He/Won’t He?’ regarding the Dior job, the curtains rose on the LV catwalk to reveal models sprinkled elegantly over an exquisite, pure white carousel.

The dreamy innocence of the show was accentuated with fairy lights, sparkling mirrors and tinkling jewellery box music. The clothes were delicate; soft sugary colours featuring elaborately laser cut pieces, sheer organza layers and smooth sweaters. Dropped waists gave a new, relaxed shape as oversized buttons elaborated the ladylike feel of the jackets and coats. Textures were central once again, but this time it was floating ostrich feathers and crystal encrusted daisies that clung to the princesses’ dresses, a complete turn around from the dark fetish leathers of last season.

As always with Marc, detail was key. The girls balanced shining tiaras in their loosely chignoned hair; candy coloured shoes were pointy with sparkling silver straps; and bags came as a choice between sweet elegant snake skins or weaved metallic baskets, whilst diamond wishbone pendants hung daintily under large icing white collars.

Fluttering by in a puffed pale pearl dress, Kate Moss’ turn on the catwalk was the perfect end to this season’s Louis Vuitton wonderland, and arguably the fairy tale ending to what may be Marc Jacobs’ last chapter there. – _AY _

Ralph Lauren

An unexpected highlight of the New York shows this season came from Ralph Lauren, whose Great Gatsby-themed sugary-sweet collection stole the heart of more than one hardened fashionista.

With the most delicious palette of Ladurée pastels, the reprise of the roaring twenties would not be complete without cloche hats, drop-waist flapper dresses, and, of course, lashings of feathers and fringing.

Showing ahead of the Baz Luhrmann remake starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Carey Mulligan, Ralph has created a wardrobe that is more than fit enough for the new Miss Buchanan.

For the day, a floral print bias-cut dress paired with a straw picnic basket, silk cloche and raffia espadrilles. Or perhaps an androgynous three-piece chauffeur suit, either with relaxed, flat-front trousers or boyish shorts.

And for the evening, Daisy’s choices are endless: from a drop-waist silk shift in bright swan white, pistachio green or shell pink to a glittering silver evening gown with her choice of cascading ostrich feathers down the skirt, or sparkling beaded fringing – or perhaps both, should the mood strike her.

Accessories were kept simple, a diamond drop earring here, a long single strand pearl necklace there, and a feather boa for the Charleston.

It seems superfluous to say that the Great Gatsby has never looked so, well err, great. – SV

Dolce & Gabbana

The scorching days of a traditional Italian summer were the roots of Dolce and Gabbana’s catwalk inspiration this season. It was a show filled to the brim with flirtatious, fun, light-hearted pieces with a dash of glamour stirred into one giant salad – definitely the recipe to follow next whenever the sun comes out again.

Painted aubergine prints floated down the catwalks on long flowing dresses, yellows and greens clashed on shorts as blooming courgettes, glowing orange tomatoes were scattered over suit jackets, and siren red chillies added a second layer of hot to tiny bra tops. Dolce & Gabbana let nothing escape their Taste of Italia this season as farfalle bows dangled from ears, peppers hung from wrists and even their sweet wicker baskets featured onion pendants.

Eveningwear took a darker turn, yet frivolous femininity continued as a main theme. Appliquéd flowers covered delicate black crochet as embellishments scattered over dark sleek dresses. Rainbow gems lined collars and waists, scattered over transparent rain macs and shone over lace before finally taking over the entire runway. Dolce & Gabbana’s finale this season was a sea of beautiful models in sparkling corsets strutting under the arches of glowing festival street lights. Mambo Italiano is definitely the way to go this summer. – AY

DSquared2

‘An American girl goes to Glastonbury,’ was the vision, according to Dean and Dan, the dynamic duo behind the oh-so Italian brand, DSquared2. And an ultra-fabulous girl she is too, stomping her high-heeled wellington boots (only the Italians…) down the muddy Milanese runway.

Their American girl had a distinctly cooler edge than the British girl at Glasto – ditsy florals and lazy trackies were replaced by studs, ripped denim, bright parkas, sequins, plaid, flannel, fur, feathers and fedoras, all piled on in glorious festival form. And, of course, the not unsubtle repeating motif of the American flag, manifested separately as top, skirt and scarf.

The girls accessorised in the standard festival manner, with wristbands piled high, VIP passes swinging free, foot-long fringed bags on their arm and, naturally, a brew in hand.

Though by no means a fashion revelation, the DSquared2 boys’ show was high in broad appeal and wearability, and was styled to absolute perfection.

Production-wise, aside from the thumping soundtrack (heavy on the Lenny Kravitz please), it would be an injustice and a crime not to mention the mud-caked male models frolicking by the backdrop. If only one could find a real festival that exhibited such fine models of male anatomy, oh, and of course, such cool, sexy, rock-chic style. – SV

Prada

There’s no doubt that Miuccia Prada knows how to please women with her easy to wear and elegantly chic designs, but this season she took it upon herself to please the male population too. ‘How so?’ I hear you ask, not with an extensive show of scantily clad models (although there were bare midriffs a-plenty), but rather by combining two of the things men love best – women and cars.

Spring/Summer 2012 at Prada was an artistic showcase of motoring. 1950s cars featured in cartoon form on leather skirts and clutch bags, as well as tantalizing prints. Defined colour combinations added a sense of power and strength to otherwise innocent looking pastel pleats, with hemlines strictly down to the knee. There was an all-together Marilyn Monroe feel to the show as models strutted over a subway grate, yet there was also Grease-like sense of fun, with plenty of leathers and tiny bandeau tops.

Sparkling jewels studded shimmering satin coats and made up the majority of accessories in the form of necklaces, large earrings and delicate belts. Thin felt jackets featured sharp lapels, contrasting the relaxed, rounded shoulders and appliqué flowers in bright colours scattered over the front.

Flames too were a Prada favourite this season, rising up from pale chiffon dresses as fire protruded from the back of wedges, and stilettos were topped with burning exhausts. Undoubtedly, this summer’s Prada girls will have a strong sense of Va Va Voom. – AY