Regal charms of New Zealand
Dylan Lowe on the delights of a country which is both naturally beautiful and an adrenalin junkie's paradise
The lowdown: Two million tourists tread the two islands of New Zealand every year – for a very good reason. Its natural beauty is second to none; its reputation as an adrenaline junkie’s wettest of dreams well deserved.
Culture: Easy-going, liberal – the Kiwis presenting a big culture gap is as likely as you being eaten by a sheep. The Maoris, indigenous people of New Zealand, have a colourful history and are immensely proud of their heritage – behold and respect it.
Costs: Prices are considerably lower than in England, yet still substantially higher than the likes of South America and Southeast Asia. Much of your budget will be spent on activities so try reducing your everyday expenditures.
Cuisine: With a sizeable ex-pat population from Asia and Europe the gastronomic diversity is astonishing. Locally-sourced ingredients – kiwis, crayfish, mussels, lamb – should keep you salivating; brush it all off with top-notch wine from Central Otago, Hawkes Bay and the Marlborough region.
Augmenting Auckland
By far the largest city in New Zealand, Auckland is often regarded for its logistic merits rather than entertainment. It serves as the reluctant port-of-call and layover for visitors to New Zealand, most trying to flee at the first opportunity. Some may even call it a dump. Truth is, unpopular may it be, Auckland represents the cultural melting pot New Zealand is transforming into, and houses many hidden gems yearning to be discovered.
Accommodation: The local YHA and Base both have multi-storey complexes in town. Smaller, daintier hostels can be found scattered around the central business district, a stone’s throw away from all the action.
Food: The façade of Auckland, Queens Street, unjustly represents the seemingly limited culinary options. The cultural diversity shows in the vast number of cuisines dotted around side alleys. Several pan-Asian food courts provide delectable meals that will keep the lowest of budgets in check. For more upmarket options check out the Elliot Stables as well as districts like Parnell.
Activities: Escape the modernised CBD and Auckland’s charms unveils itself. The colonial past is visible on buildings, though for a thorough history lesson the Auckland Museum is the place to be. The Auckland Central Library offers a range of free talks, which includes Maori lessons. A ferry-ride away, Waiheke Island boasts vineyards and fine dining whilst Rangitoto is a dormant giant volcano, its past eruptions fossilised in intriguing rock formations. Auckland Bridge is scenic spot for anyone eager to lose their bungy-virginity.
Taupo-nui-a-Tia
Taupo boasts many features that surpass Queenstown, its South Island adventure-capital counterpart. Consisting of a small town and Lake Taupo, a crater lake the size of Amsterdam formed by a super-volcano eruption, it lures in tourists with its sexed-up selection of extreme sports – alongside world-class hiking and a ferocious party vibe.
Accommodation: Being one of New Zealand’s most popular tourist destinations, finding a place to kip isn’t the centre of worries – choosing one is. A backpackers’ hostel practically springs from every street – do some comparing.
Food: The big fast-food chains have colonised and dominated the food scene – an unsettling observation for the foodie – though some are not without merit. Burgerfuel, a Kiwi establishment, is one worth an attempt. Two mega-sized supermarkets perched on the edge of town will attend to your self-catering needs.
Activities: Allow your imagination to go wild – and a sturdy finance too. This is where adrenaline-seekers let loose their comfort-zone boundaries; a more economic choice compared with Queenstown too. Indeed, Taupo Tandem Skydiving lays claim to the cheapest skydive in the country – a rather pleasant, panoramic plunge into the lake below. The mix-bag of the usual suspects – bungy jumping, jetboating – is readily available. Tramping – New Zealand slang for hiking – enthusiast or not, the nearby Tongariro National Park pledges to give you all one of the best day’s walk of your lives. Bring you skis to Ruapehu, one of the three active stratovolcanoes constituting the National Park.
Glacial Franz Josef Whilst the township of Franz Josef consists mainly of a handful of blocks and the major road running through it, it’s unfairly overshadowed and dwarfed by the nearby glacier that shares its name. While the village provides conveniences to visitors it’s the natural spectacle they are after – the 12km-long glacier is the main attraction of New Zealand’s West Coast, flocked by thousands of tourists each day eager to admire the icy giant.
Accommodation: Franz Josef Township, 5km from the glacier, supplies the bed spaces. Despite an abundance of accommodation-providers they are fairly packed – swiftly booked out too. The local YHA, for instance, is often frequented by clienteles ending up there after driving past too many ‘no vacancy’ signs.
Food: With a limited number of options clustered along the main road the food scene isn’t exactly glamorous – though some offer costly culinary delights. There is a convenience store, which is usually adequately stocked up – sufficient to fend off hunger for relatively short stays.
Activities: Coming to Franz Josef people are fairly clear-minded with their purpose: to see the glacier. The Franz Josef Glacier Guides have tours covering the needs of distant speculators and expert ice climbers alike. Heli-hiking – descending on to the ice in a helicopter – gives you a chance to soak up its magnificence from an aerial view.
Annoyances: Do not attempt to hike the glacier without a guide. Several lives were sharply terminated last year by tumbling ice when guidance was ignored.
Quaffy Queenstown
Regarded as the southern hemisphere’s adrenaline capital, Queenstown enjoys a healthy year-round blitz of tourists. Whilst many have arrived with the intention of leaping off something, Queenstown’s gorgeous scenery has in turn enticed the less adventurous. As a result there’s no shortage of eateries, shops, pubs and nightclubs accommodating the tourism market.
Accommodation: Hostels are aplenty, scattered all over the town centre. Whilst the big chains like YHA and Base have branches here, try a small-scale hostel for a more homely stay. More upmarket options are located further away from the vibe, which may be handy if you prefer quieter nights.
Food: No supermarket but one exists for miles from the centre, its produce unjustly extortionate. Most restaurants offer budget-friendly lunch menus or, if your finance won’t stretch, try the local food court. Recommended is getting your hands on a Fergburger – if not to experience its legendary status, savour their size-of-your-face burgers. Expect long queues – especially during rat-arsed hours.
Activities: Queenstown is a daredevil’s definition of paradise: from paragliding to heli-snow sports, from jetboating to skydiving – it’d have your bladder clenched day and night. Queenstown is also the birthplace of commercial bungee jumping – paying tribute to Kawarau Bridge – where the first-ever leaps were performed – aside, the real rite-of-passage lies with the Nevis, which boasts a 134m freefall. For the less gutsy, there are always milder water sports, hiking, and frisbee golf. Queenstown becomes a popular ski destination in the winter.