A weekend in scenic Prague

“Not many people know this, but the Nazis had lined the tunnels underneath Prague with dynamite and were prepared to destroy it as they retreated in the face of the Red Army. Were it not for a small group of Russian monarchists who opposed them for 5 days and managed to foil the plot, all of Prague’s beauty wouldn’t exist.” We sipped our tea as Miloš continued his story. “And are they remembered today? There’s a small memorial to them, about knee-high, somewhere in the city. That’s justice for you.”

As we sat in Miloš Gavrilović’s tiny antique shop hidden in a side street off the old town square, hearing stories of the city of Prague and its past, there was a feeling of unspoiled novelty, as if we have found something truly new and special. However, it was not just the smiling, bespectacled old man who generated this impression – the whole city in cold grey February is like a flower waiting to blossom. All its treasures are there, aching to be discovered.

The treasures are truly endless. The obvious, but deservedly revered, Charles’ Bridge and Prague Castle, both jewels of the gothic style, cannot be missed. There are also countless museums showing an incredible variety of exhibitions: on the old town square an exhibition of watch-making including information about the Prague Orloj (the 600 year old astronomical clock) faces a building housing photos and letters documenting the life of Salvador Dali. Not a stone’s throw away is the Sex machine museum featuring, among its many quirky exhibits, a pornographic film from 1925, allegedly commissioned by King Alfonso XII of Spain. All of these venues and many more accept an Imperial College card for a student discount, usually in the region of 40%.

Prague boasts many glorious landmarks, but equally it hides none of the scars of its history. In Wenceslas square stands the memorial to student Jan Palach, who burnt himself alive in protest of the 1968 invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviet Union. Further north in the Spanish synagogue in Josefov, the Jewish Museum of Prague presents an informative but chilling account of the lives of Czech Jews during the Second World War.

After a day’s walking on the cobbled streets it was time to indulge in an altogether different form of tourism. In Kozi street, the restaurant Kozička boasts a wide range of European food including Czech specialties such as beef goulash with potato pancakes in an enviable environment. The smoky cellar look creates an effect of smells, sights and sounds merging into one living hubbub and the food is well worth the price, with two eating a two course meal with drinks for about £25. Naturally, the selection of beers on tap is large: Svijany is recommended, whilst Kozel and Staropramen are ubiquitous. A pint shouldn’t be bought for more than £1.50.

Not far from the old town square is Potrefená Husa, a branded pub chain run by Staropramen brewery that is also hot on the food front. Set in a more modern, bar-like ambience it offers an equally appetizing menu but a more restricted choice of lagers. Staropramen of all varieties are definitely worth a try, especially Staropramen Dark (Cerný).

Despite only spending 2 days in Prague, the experience has succeeded in embedding in our hearts a desire to return there many more times – I’m sure it’ll be even prettier in the Spring!