Suit Up: an idiot’s guide to the who, what, where, and how of formalwear

Double-Breasted Suit

The Man

The double-breasted suit was once thought to be reserved for a particular type of imperious middle-aged bore, chortling at something distinctly unfunny at a gentleman’s club or boating event of some description. Thankfully, this stereotype no longer applies. A favourite of Humphrey Bogart, and more recently, a certain Chuck Bass (this is a good thing, for those unaware), the DB has been enjoying a revival of sorts. This bold suit is for a man, not a boy, and a tall, slim man at that – the broadening effect of the overlapping buttons does nothing for the more portly amongst you, but shows off a good physique. Ryan Gosling – yes. Bill Clinton – not so much.

The Occasion

Though hugely versatile, the double-breasted suit is decidedly bold and formal – not for the faint of heart. Be sure to know that wherever you wear it, be it inside or outside working hours, you are certain to draw attention. This suit is for a confident, assured man who is ready to own the room. Favour a dark, modern, slim cut for the evening and a lighter colour with a more traditional cut for the day.

The Rules

Buttons should be kept fastened, most importantly the ‘anchor’ button on the inside of the jacket. The whole effect is lost the moment you lose the jacket’s shape, which is kept intact by the anchor. Shoulders should not be boxy – the look is sharply tailored, never reminiscent of a 1980s revival. The jacket overall should fit well, but should skim the figure rather than hug the corners.

The Catwalk

Almost ubiquitous at the menswear shows this season, the smart, gentlemanly double-breasted suit was pervasive especially amongst the Italian designers, with a subtle aubergine hue proving a favourite at Prada and Ferragamo. Colour and textural variation in general was prominent, with dark blues at Gucci, pinstripes at Alexander McQueen and wider stripes at Canali. The vibe overall was modern and young, reviving the traditional Bogartian DB with a spring in its swaggering step. -SV

Three-Button Suit

The Man

The three-button suit is generally the seen as the more traditionally elegant of the suits with its buttons spanning a larger area of the torso. Resulting from its top button resting higher up on the chest than its other single-breasted cousins, the three-button suit draws attention to said area, increasing the width of its appearance – this is not a suit for those with highly-developed pectorals, or conversely (tragically?), man boobs. Ideal for taller men, particularly those over 6ft, the three-button is a classic, worn by ex-Bond Pierce Brosnan and increasingly popular with rising stars seeking extra style points and adult recognition including Robert Pattinson.

The Occasion

Most definitely a formal choice, the three-button suit is a great alternative to its more popular two-button cousin for those yearning for a spark of individuality in the office. The extra dash of business refinement emanating from this suit gives an extra confidence boost on those all important interview days whilst on another note, should men have ‘off days’; this piece is definitely one to turn to as the longer span of the triple buttons hides much of the torso area including, perhaps hopefully, where you spilt your coffee in the morning.

The Rules

Traditionally the rule of thumb regarding buttoning is (from the top) “sometimes, always, never”. However, in the more complicated real world it can be broken down as such: doing only the middle button is standard and sleek; doing up the top two requires an increased level of confidence in ones stance; doing up just the top can be seen as far too “contemporary” (read ‘hipster’) for the office; whilst all three tends to look too strict. On top of this, it must remembered that the top button should be left undone if the lapel of the suit rolls down to it.

The Catwalk

Protect from the cold whilst journeying to and from the office by adding winter accessories to your three-buttoned suit. Burberry Prorsum opted to liven up their grey suits with subtly patterned gloves and scarves layered under bulging puffa jackets and leather coats inspired by the great British countryside, whilst at Viktor & Rolf the models tackled the weather by layering fur over their chocolate suits matched with the warmer alternative of leather trousers. -AY

Two-Button Suit

The Man

Arguably the easiest of the suits to wear, the two-button suit makes the best of almost any figure. A favourite of suit-wearing icons including John F. Kennedy, Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra, this is a choice that is almost idiot-proof in its ability to bring the inner suave, sophisticated gentleman out of the most dishevelled and hopeless of men. Provided the suit fits properly, and is combined with a well-chosen shirt and tie, you will find yourself transformed – at once elegant, effortless, and perfectly refined.

The Occasion

The two-button suit is probably going to be your most reliable asset in most formal settings. For the full effect, pair a black pinstripe suit with a light blue shirt and a dark grey pin-dot tie, silver tie bar and white pocket square. Shoes and belt should be black leather, simple and polished. For the weekend, simply pair your suit jacket with some smart dark blue jeans – cuffed – and keep your shirt in a similar blue tone. Penny loafers, no socks – it’s all in the details.

The Rules

There is really only one rule here: only the top button should be fastened (defining the waist), but never the second. The second button is aesthetically necessary but technically superfluous and pulls the jacket completely out of shape if done up. Other than this, you’re fairly safe in most colour and fabric choices. Pockets may be slanted, a reference to the days of hacking jackets – the slant allowed easier access to pockets on horseback. Breast pockets are omnipresent, but ticket pockets, an occasional addition above the main pockets, tend to look better on a three-button suit.

The Catwalk

Seen in almost every combination of tone, pattern and texture, the two-button suit also seems to have succumbed to the theme of certain striking colour choices. A jewel-toned velvet incarnation with contrasting trousers was seen at Burberry Prorsum, Prince of Wales check at Alexander McQueen, contrasting lapels at Louis Vuitton, and vivid, solid colour in an incredibly flattering slim cut at Gucci – it has to be said, Frida Giannini cuts a wicked suit. -SV

One-Button Suit

The Man

More of a stylists’ pick than a business must, the single button suit is a wardrobe staple for any image-conscious man. Its slimming lines make for a smooth modern look, and the appearance of a stretched torso is particularly flattering for those more vertically challenged. Effortless and perfectly dapper, this single buttoned garment is a red carpet favourite including Benedict Cumberbatch and Mark Ronson – such wearers carry themselves with pride in the full knowledge that they are turning heads and sending hearts a-flutter.

The Occasion

Undeniably a casual suit jacket, the versatility of the single button suit is its secret. Thanks to its debonair sleek cut, it allows one to be more avant-garde than when donning its contemporaries, bestowing onto its wearer a chance to experiment with lapels, collars, textures, and colours. Shoes, shirt and tie combinations also allow more room for experiment - from classic black and white combinations to more daring personality filled patterns; ties, bowties and braces; brogues, loafers and even boots; extra points are awarded here for courage and originality. Whether it be for friendly drinks or (unelegantly put) a night out on the pull, the one-button suit is best when worn when not required by dress code for that extra dash of gentlemanly suave.

The Rules

Tailoring is a must and confidence is key. So long as the suit fits snugly (strained fabric is far too tight; long sleeves and baggy chest is far too large), and your posture is distinguishably upright, the world is your oyster. An easy, fuss-free item of clothing, it demands only to be buttoned up when its wearer is stood, and unbuttoned every time they sit – this really is dressing up dumbed down.

The Catwalk

Extravagance is most definitely to be embraced with the single-buttoned suit as designers gave the fashion world a new way of expressing ones personality after dark. Dolce and Gabbana opted for rich golden embroidery and ornate baroque swirls inspired by the decorative Oscar Wilde, a muse for many of this season’s collections. A more luxurious look was preferred at Viktor & Rolf and Lanvin who’s shimmering fabrics and complementing bowties craved the attention of the extrovert creating the perfect dinner date outfit. -AY