How do you like your fur, madam? Gassed or trapped?

FUR - Once the ultimate fashion accessory, now considered to be what it is; the cruel death of a large number of animals. LYNX, the anti fur trading organisation, started its campaign in 1985, whilst the fur trade was at a peak. Five years on, after some 'very powerful and critically acclaimed' advertising campaigns, sales figures for fur goods in the United Kingdom have declined by over 75%.

The Department of Trade and Industry has registered a decline in fur sale from £80 million in 1984 to £11 million in the first half of 1989. The outlook for fur trading companies looks bleak. There is no longer a huge demand for mink coats and other fur goods. This year, Harrods was forced to close its long running fur department; the last survivor in the House of Fraser group. Selfridges, the only other major department store selling furs in London, has yet to determine its policy on selling fur, although the store has effectively served notice to quit upon its current fur concession, Jindo.

Another main fur retailer has also left the U.K. The Hudson Bay Company, which once auctioned the skins of millions of animals, has transferred operations to Helsinki, bringing an end to more than 300 years of fur trading and trapping in the UK.

40% of Europe's fur is traded through the Hudson Bay Company, although in recent years there has been a reduction of the business. It has sold all of its Canadian trading posts and its Toronto auction house. The company has held a Royal Charter since the reign of King Charles II, and it is rumoured that a large proportion of its shares are still owned by the Royal family.

One of the largest fur factories in the U.K. is set to close, after supplying fur manufacturers with skins for the last 38 years. The reason cited for the closure of the Hawkyard mink factory in Yorkshire was a WorldWide over-production of mink skins. The true reason is a lack of demand, which continues to fall as the younger generations become more naturally aware.

Contrary to popular belief, 92% of all fur comes from factory-farming methods, where mink and fox are reared in hundreds of tiny wire cages. Mink are normally kept in pairs in cages typically 30x9x15 inches. These farms produce pelts which are relatively cheap, with high consistency and quality, and a large variety of colours. Variety comes from selective breeding, which often results in distressing genetic side effects. The animals are slaughtered before they are a year old. Methods include gassing, commonly with car exhaust fumes; lethal injection or electrocution. Foxes are killed by the use of mouth (clamp or rod) and anus (rod) electrodes connected to a portable 12v battery via a step up transformer producing approximately 200v. This can lead to prolonged deaths if the battery is not in perfect condition. To facilitate in the pelting process, the skins are usually removed whilst the animal is still warm which prevents bleeding.

Over a ton of protein enriched food goes into the production of every full length coat. Half of the Finnish herring catch goes into feeding animals on fur farms, even though the catch could be better used to help cure the starvation that is apparent throughout the World at this time.

Mink farms should legally be surrounded by a secure boundary fence to prevent the escape of potentially destructive non-native species. Many farms are insecure and Mink have been photographed after escaping into the wild. Feral Mink, previously a non-native species, escaped from fur farms and have now become well established in mainland Britain. The eradication of the Feral Mink was eventually given up by the MAFF (Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food) in 1970 as it became apparent just how widespread they had become.

In addition to the closure of most of the major fur outlets, a large number of small stores have fallen: Sacks and Brendler in East Anglia (after 40 years), Glyn and Leinhart in Sheffield, and Faulkes Furs in Birmingham (after 62 years).

The reason for these massive closures: LYNX, the leading organisation against the fur trade. Their advertising campaign has been strong and dramatic, even offensive, but this is exactly what the general public is supposed to think. Posters appear in red and black, to show the sick and bloody truth of the fur trade. The once glamorous market is now dead.

Many people reading this article will have seen LYNX'S famous 'Dumb Animals' commercial of the fashion show during which a fur coat disgorges blood over a horrified audience. This and all the other LYNX advertising has made fur perhaps the most controversial and often debated animal welfare issue.

Recent surveys by LYNX have shown that more than 70% of the population are opposed to the killing of animals simply for fur. LYNX'S campaign has an international reputation for its peaceful, non-violent work for animals. It is actively campaigning within parliament to update laws that affect fur bearing animals.

The Law is an ass! Why in this country, where we have banned the use of the steel leg-hold trap, do we still import fur from countries that are using this barbaric device? In 1982, no fewer than 28,000 Lynx were trapped for the fur trade in Canada alone. As the larger cats are becoming scarce, the hunt turns its attention to the smaller species, the Ocelot, Margay, Lynx, and Geoffroy's Cat. In 1984 the skins of more than 13,000 Geoffroy's Cats were imported into France from Bolivia, while West Germany imported 16,890 Leopard skins from China. Fortunately, West Germany has proposed protection for these smaller cats in the future.

Last Summer, LYNX investigators visited the Swalesmoor Mink Factory just outside Halifax. They discovered appalling conditions and lax security. Dead Mink were left lying in cages. The fur trade is trying to prevent such evidence from ever being revealed. The LYNX investigators, along with key personnel have now received writs of trespass. LYNX is being sued for financial damages, although no damage was done to the property, and now faces substantial legal costs. A report has been sent to the Ministry of Agriculture, who licence all mink factories in the U.K., and their response is awaited.

In North America, the Coyote, a wild creature, is hunted for its pelt. Bullets are not used to kill the animals, because this damages the fur so there are two main practices of killing once the creature has been trapped: repeated bludgeoning of the head, and a practice called 'suffocation', where the trapper stands on the animal's vital organs, usually for 14-15 minutes, until the animal is dead.

Last year alone, more than 300,000 coyotes were among the 20 million wild animals trapped for their fur. A full length coyote skin coat can be bought in London for between £4,500 and £7,000. Even in Britain, an estimated 100,000 red foxes are illegally trapped or snared for their fur.

An old story of what can happen is that of the sea otter, hunted and killed for its very smooth fur. It has been said that there are approximately 800 million hairs in each pelt. Its troubles were at a peak when the Chinese Mandarins were introduced to this richest of pelts by Russian hunters. This led to entire herds being wiped out, the population of Otters falling from 150,000 in 1740 to just over 1000 in 1911. A treaty was then signed by representatives from the United States, Great Britain (for Canada), Russia, and Japan.
The Otters were given complete protection, and thankfully, their numbers have now recovered somewhat. Sadly, it now faces other threats from entanglement in fishermen's nets, and oil spills.

LYNX is even opposing the wearing of fake fur, saying that glamourising fur in any way is wrong. Their attitude is that furs are beautiful - but only on their rightful owners, the fur-bearing animals. After highlighting the fact that OXFAM had been selling second-hand furs, LYNX has persuaded them not to accept donations of fur, and all stocks of fur were withdrawn on March 1st this year.

Many of those women who own a fur coat, now refuse to wear them. Models are paid extra for the social stigma of wearing Mink coats, and many refuse even to wear one. This effect is not international as yet, and only The Netherlands has been affected as much as Britain, although fur is at last struggling to stay in fashion in the United States, which accounts for about a third of the $6 Billion market. LYNX has opened an office in Los Angeles, and is planning to start a similar publicity campaign in Western Europe, using its 'Rich Bitch. Poor Bitch' posters.

In Kenya, hundreds of thousands of pounds of illegal wildlife products are being destroyed. Recently, a bonfire was lit to destroy over three tons of ivory, whilst in Brazil, thousands of furs from illegally killed endangered species were incinerated. This removes the items from circulation, with the view that the items have no monetary value anyway. LYNX will be holding its own ceremonial bonfire of fur coats later in the year.

Among the anti-fur trade’s supporters are Paul & Linda McCartney, Richard Adams, Richard Briers, Liza Minnelli, Elton John, Kate O'Mara, David Bailey, Neil Kinnock, David Owen, Hayley Mills, Andrew Bowden MP, Ron Davies MP, Tony Banks MP, The Princess Catherine Aga Khan, Richard Ryder, Phil Cool, Big Fun, and the Bishops of Salisbury, Edinburgh and Bangor. Several Lord Mayors have expressed support for the ending of the use of fur on ceremonial robes. These include the Mayors from Birmingham, Bristol, Manchester, Bradford, Cardiff, Swansea, and the Lord Provost of Inverclyde.

If you would like to become a member of LYNX and support the campaign to end the cruelties of the fur trade, please contact LYNX for further details, by writing to: LYNX, P.O.Box 300, Nottingham, NG1 5HN (telephone 0602 413052), or go along to their shop at 79, Long Acre, Covent Garden. You will also receive a quarterly news letter and 10% discount on all merchandise orders, of which there is a very large and fashionable selection. There are student membership rates available, so take your Union card along with you.