Review: Harwood Arms

The only Michelin-starred pub gastropub in London has a surprising signature dish – the humble Scotch egg. Of course, it is something very special. The egg, hidden within plenty of flavourful venison sausagemeat, has a firm white but impossibly runny yolk and is coated in the most crunchy, golden brown breadcrumbs. This sums up my impression of the Harwood Arms. It is something simple and comforting that has been obsessively refined to the point of being ethereal.

The menu consists of pure, seasonal beautiful British fare. It is free from any gimmicks or mind-games that many Michelin restaurants are guilty of. There is not a smudge of foam or a speck of overly rich sauce with a pointless French name in sight. The home-baked bread that arrived straight away stunned with its artisanal qualities and the two-week wait for the table was already justified. The starters of an extremely well-executed Eel tart and the perfect Scotch egg made me start planning my next visit even before my main course of succulent wood pigeon fillets and homemade Douglas fir sausages arrived. There is lot of game featured, especially venison, and the restaurant website tells us that some of the ingredients are proudly hunted by the owners themselves. By the time I was onto dessert and coffee, I was convinced I was dreaming. The light and fluffy homemade doughnuts with fragrant lemon cream and sweet eggy bread with sharp rhubarb were both easily the best specimens of these classics that I have ever tried.

Located on a quiet corner of a residential street between Fulham Broadway and West Brompton, the exterior of the pub is deceitfully unassuming. It is not obvious whether the pub is even in business or not. But once you are inside, there is a Heavenly atmosphere. The room is light and roomy but is still cosy with its rustic interior. The clientele is predominantly affluent, but not ostentatious, locals who have come to let their hair down just to enjoy quality food and drink. Everything about the institution is tasteful and everyone present relaxed and mild-mannered.

You would be happy to marry your daughter to the charming, intelligent Harwood Arms waiters wearing smart-casual really well. Good service is more about character and style, rather than crumb-sweeping and extensive knowledge about vineyards. You will not hear me saying this very often, but just over thirty pounds for three courses excluding drinks here is an absolute steal.

_Harwood Arms, 27 Walham Grove, London SW6 1QR, 020 7386 1847 _

Nearest Tube: West Brompton or Fulham Broadway.