Fashion

Fashion through the decades, the good and the bad

Saskia Verhagen and Alice Yang take a look back through fashion history as they recap the looks and icons of the past 62 years

1940s

Iconic: Dior's 'New Look'

“In 1947, my first collection was successful beyond my wildest dreams,” remarked Christian Dior after he showcased a catwalk so revolutionary that it not only defined the 40s by majorly changing the way women dressed, but is still constantly referred to on catwalks today. In just one show Dior had singlehandedly created a ‘New Look’, with sweeping skirts filled with netting that hovered at mid calf topped with moulded bodices that accentuated the bust, all pulled together with a tiny wasp waist and elegant satin gloves. It was a completely new shape that was all at once voluptuous and feminine, marking the start of a new war free life and giving hope to luxury and the return to traditional values. -AY

Horrific: Zoot Suits

A bad fashion statement from America? How unsurprising. The Jazz Age, undeniably produced some legendary music, but unfortunately this came with the popularisation of the Zoot Suit. The name in itself already says a lot, but for a more visual description, imagine Simon Cowell with his trousers belted at the waist, combined with those old school scallys that wore socks over their trackies, and you just about have the picture. The Zoot Suit: High-waisted trousers with buffering wide legs pegged at the ankles – male harem pants gone terribly wrong, matched with long shapeless coats with wide padded shoulders. A truly ghastly look, how did anyone ever think they could pull it off? -AY

1950s

Iconic: To Catch A Thief

Flawlessly polished and effortlessly elegant, To Catch A Thief was the epitome of 50s glamour and sophistication. Cary Grant plays an ex-notorious jewel thief in immaculately fitted suits; dapper sports jackets and sleek tuxedos, whilst Grace Kelly’s wardrobe is beyond perfection, having been designed by the acclaimed stylist Edith Head. Kelly’s flowing white floor-length dress has now become a timeless wardrobe staple for the affluently stylish around the globe, and her ice blue chiffon gown with a transparent scarf flung oh-so-casually around her shoulders had rich American heiress nailed in a single shot. If you’re ever lacking style inspiration, To Catch A Thief is your go-to film. -AY

Horrific: Poodle Skirts

It’s not as much the shape or length of the poodle skirt which emerged in the 50s as the ‘casual skirt’ that makes it so appalling, more so it is how literal the poodle skirt was. The fashion world is one that appreciates the art of subtlety, yet the poodle skirt is quite literally a skirt, with a poodle on it. Worn as everyday casual wear, starting in America, the poodle skirt took a new generation of young girls and plumped them into large swinging bold coloured felt skirts and ankle length white socks, slowly pushing out the elegance and sophistication of the decade. Admittedly, the skirts gave the impression of a tiny waist, but they were often worn with shirts and matching neckties, something few others bar Olivia Newton John and Co could pull off, and even then, the ‘Grease’ cast at least had the sense to their poodle-free. -AY

1960s

Iconic: Breakfast at Tiffany’s

If ever there was a cinematic fashion moment in history that made it into the record books, it would be a certain Miss Holly Golightly in her little black Givenchy dress, pearls and opera gloves, sipping a coffee and munching a croissant outside the Tiffany’s flagship in New York in the opening credits of Breakfast At Tiffany’s. The black dress (whose iconic status is secured in place by its very own Wikipedia entry) sold for £467,200 at Christie’s auctioneers in London in 2006, to an anonymous phone bidder who, no doubt, was intent on recreating the moment herself. -SV

Horrific: Tie-dye

Maybe it was that potent cocktail of home-brewed beer, pot, LSD and unwashed hair that set into place a movement that popularised such an obscenity as the tie-dye t-shirt. Emerging in the 1960s along with some of the all-time greatest music ever composed, somehow the level of creativity didn’t quite translate to those who listened to it. Those who considered themselves hippies thought themselves better than basic hygiene, good taste, shoes and bras. And so came the tie-dye t-shirt: a psychedelic concoction of every colour in the rainbow on what once was a perfectly good white t-shirt. -SV

1970s

Iconic: Glamorous Rock’n’Roll

A moment that continues to inspire the likes of Kate Moss, Rachel Zoe and Carine Roitfeld was the rock’n’roll glamour of the 1970s. Mick and Bianca Jagger (pictured), one power-couples of the era (along with Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg, and Andy Warhol and his wig) advocated the look du jour, at once both nonchalant and immaculately put together. Such textures as denim, leather, fur, silk and lace were combined with perfect élan. The look was characterised by a heavy dose of accessories – bug-eyed sunglasses, piles of jewellery – sound familiar? -SV

Horrific: ABBA

ABBA. The word alone is enough to conjure a nightmare of horrible euro-disco-pop music and primary-coloured, sparkling all-in-ones - the likes of which have now been relegated to the confines of the Strictly Come Dancing wardrobe department. Too many rhinestones, too many metallic touches, and way too much hair. Add to that nauseating picture a pair of knee-high matching platform boots and you’ve just about got everything that was horrible about the number one Swedish export of the 1970s. Though the flared trouser silhouette has made it into Autumn/Winter 2011, thankfully those men’s all-in-ones have remained staunchly in the 1970s. -SV

1980s

Iconic: Michael Jackson

As much the King of Pop as a genius of style, Michael Jackson re-invented his look in the 80s resulting in a slimmer silhouette with a daring dash of added colour. The release of ‘Thriller’ in his familiar red jacket with sharply sculpted shoulders followed by the crystal-encrusted orange leather jacket embellished with zippers that appeared in ‘Beat It’, brought to the fashion world a theatrical look that is still envied today. Dazzling sequins, single white gloves and tipped trilbies, along with cropped pants worn over bright white socks and black loafers were so highly integrated by MJ that they have become as iconic as his legendary moonwalk. -AY

Horrific: Madonna

There’s no denying that Madonna has had some defining fashion moments throughout her never-ending career, however, the 80s were definitely not her peak. Over gelled, unnaturally orange, and with probably a few too many cans of hairspray, Madonna’s 80s hair do was, in all honesty, horrendous. In her youth, she experimented with the punk rock look, but unfortunately, it just wasn’t meant to be. Wrists overloaded with spikes, oversized hideous crosses pulling down her ears, a black stud piercing over her lip, and a braided dreadlocks matching fishnet tops and far too much flesh on show, Madonna’s 80s look was anything but her lucky star. -AY

1990s

Iconic: The Original Supermodels

Long before the days of Arizona Muse, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Freja Beha Erichsen, even before the days of Kate Moss, there once lived the original supermodels, the ones that took the phenomenon of the model off the catwalk, and into the household. Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Tatjana Patitz, Cindy Crawford – bright-eyed and beautiful in the iconic Peter Lindbergh photograph taken for British Vogue in January 1990. These women, along with Helena Christensen, Claudia Schiffer, Gisele Bündchen, Heidi Klum et al became the iconic faces that launched a thousand brands. -SV

Horrific: Clueless

Let’s just make one thing clear: Clueless is one of the all-time greatest movies made, ever. Ever. And even though the fashion moments exhibited through the movie are truthful, that does not make them any less heinous. First we have Cher and Dionne, in their head-to-toe matching mini-sweater mini-skirt ensembles. Then we have Dionne’s boyfriend Murray in classic 90s grunge, a full view of plaid boxers on show under low-slung denim cargo jeans. And lastly, a very youthful Paul Rudd as Josh (the love interest – um, DUH) as the slogan tee’d, politically righteous hipster of the 90s. Cliques, fashion, whatever. -SV